A Moment With...Nicholas Kirkwood

2012 February 22

Nicholas Kirkwood
Patrick McMullan View Gallery

Pollini’s freshly-minted creative director is toasting the opening of the brand’s first-ever boutique this week. Check it out at via Della Spiga, 15.

How’s it going at Pollini?
It’s been good! We finished our Fall collection and we’re starting work on next Spring, already!

Which was...
The first goal was to really nail down what Pollini should be about, and not make it look like a second line of mine, for example. There are lots of Italian shoe brands, but I wanted to give it personality. I went through the archive and looked at the initial DNA, which seemed to be so much into riding boots, and in general, a slightly masculine edge. They had a heyday in the seventies and eighties. We’re doing a little more color and modernizing the lines but keeping a nod to the past.

And then the shop…
…Another challenge as well. It’s one thing to be able to do a seasonal collection, but a shop needs to transition and look interesting while signifying what the brand stands for today.

What’s the concept?
We thought a lot about the materials—wood, lacquering, panels, shelves. We did a really interesting pattern on the floor, as well.

How are you managing this gig while your own collection in London is growing?
I put on different caps. It’s definitely becoming easier as I’m growing up!

Are you spending more time in Milan?
I come to Italy every other week at least. The showroom and offices are in Milan, but I spend most of my time in the factory in Gatteo, which is between Bologna and Rimini. With shoes, you really have to be at the factory. You can’t prototype them in the studios in the same way as you can ready-to-wear, due to the machinery.

Are you eating more Italian food?
I’m actually trying to eat a bit less because it’s a little dangerous!